White City

by Aleksandra Stamenković

Carnivals – the word itself arouses imagination and images of spectacular days filled with decadence. During five days of Carnival, Rio de Janeiro becomes global capital of fun. With eccentric parades displaying astonishing floats crowded with dancers in fabulous costumes; street parties where the samba never stops and balls of the greatest extravagance - the fiesta never comes to an end

Though Carnival is celebrated in cities and villages across Brazil and many other Catholic countries, Rio de Janeiro Carnival is now considered one of the greatest shows on globe. This is not only the biggest Carnival but also one of the world’s most interesting artistic events. Pretty much everyone has heard of this festivity. That is obvious in increasing number of foreign visitors and it came to about half million every year.

Carnival is a four-day celebration. It happens at the peak of summer, when Cariocas (natives of Rio de Janeiro) are at their best. It officially starts on Saturday, and finishes on Fat Tuesday (Mardi-Gras) with the beginning of Lent on Ash Wednesday after which one is supposed to abstain from all bodily pleasures. Carnival takes place from February 20 through 24.

History

The origins of Carnival festivities in Rio de Janeiro date back to colonial times and year 1723. Immigrants from the Portuguese islands introduced here the pre-lent festivity Entrudo, a chaotic event where participants threw water, mud and food at each other. The idea was getting everybody soaked wet and anyone could be a potential victim. Even some emperors took part in it. Due to its rampancy, authorities tried to outlaw the celebration and Brazilians used to riot the Carnival until it was accepted as a cultural expression. The black slaves became actively involved in the festivities. This was the only time when they were able to be free for three days. Nowadays the poorer black communities are still the most included groups in all the carnival preparations and they are the ones for whom Carnival means the most.

Carnival has gone long way since its beginnings. One of the most important recent developments was that the biggest parade, the Samba Parade, became too big for improvisations and moved from the downtown streets to the purpose-designed Sambodromo.

Sambodromo and Samba Parade

Rio Carnival owns its world reputation to this manifestation. It’s a spectacle and a competition of Rio samba schools. The parade starts at 21:00 and continues until dawn next day. The event is broadcast live to several countries and other Brazilian states.

Preparation for Samba parade start few months in advance as each samba school mobilizes thousands of supporters who will create various parts of the school’s display. A samba school is basically an association of people from the same favela. They get together on a regular basis for samba nights and rehearsals. This also provides invaluable jobs to the community that is employed year-round in the production of costumes and floats.

Each year schools choose a different theme they try display in their entry. The samba schools work to build the best floats and costumes to represent their themes, and to include the best music they can from their band called the bateria. Schools may include 3,000 to 5,000 members in the Parade as well as six to eight floats.

Street Parades

They may try to commercialize it or industrialize it, but Carnival is something that comes deep from the passionate Carioca soul. There’s much more to Carnival than the Samba Parade. Street Carnival festivities are great fun, free and happen at every corner of the city. The emphasis is on joy and spontaneity. Before, during and after the Parade, thousands of people who did not get in gather on the streets. From Carnival Saturday to Tuesday, open-air dances take place all over the city. The biggest and most organized one is on Cinelândia Square. Those who paraded in costumes and who just want to party more, making the crowd even more colorful with their fancy dresses, also join. Apart from organized street dances, people also simply gather outside little corner bars, drink and have fun in the street.

Bandas and blocos are very famous at the street carnivals especially because it takes nothing to join in. Each neighborhood in Rio has its favorite Bandas or Blocos. Both consist of an orchestra marching along a pre-determined route, followed by crowds of enthusiastic samba dancers. They can be dressed in costumes, bathing suits, special T-shirts, or even in drag. One of the best known street bands of Rio is the legendary Banda de Ipanema. Looking from a historical perspective they were the one to blame for the rebirth or Rio de Janeiro’s unique Street Carnival Festivities. Banda de Ipanema is also the Carnival event with the highest concentration of drag queens in Rio. They come from all over the universe to party together at the streets of Rio. They will stop the traffic, jump on buses or into cars, and sometimes even kiss the driver. Their splendor is manifested in all shapes and sizes. Some play the same character every year while the others come in groups with coordinated costumes. You never know what to expect… You will run into Carmen Miranda, Minnie Mouse, Supergirl, Little Mermaid or a Snow White. Their costumes can be glamorous, chic, bizarre or anything in-between you can imagine.

Balls and Parties

In addition to the Samba Parade and Street Carnival, spectacular balls are organized. You won’t have to spend a fortune to have a great time. Tickets to most balls will cost you around $20 to $50 (the only exceptions are gala balls). A true Carnival Ball features live music. It’s usually two bands taking turns, and sometimes there is a guest vocalist. Samba percussion is very loud.

You can find just any kind of ball – gala balls, balls for singles and gay balls. The gala balls are luxurious events organized at the Copacabana Palace. Local socialites, international stars, models and soccer players usually attend these so called Magic Balls. In case you decide to show up make sure that you are properly dressed. Luxury costume or black tie/evening dress here is a must. Ticket prices for the Magic Ball range from $575 to $1150 in Golden Room. Besides these fancy balls there are still more casual and specific ones. Balls for singles are taking place at Copacabana Beach and a well-known club Scala. The venue is very big and offers thematic dances every night during Carnival.

Tips and other useful information
In case you decide to attend one of the world’s biggest parties you should not only get your flight tickets, but also do a bit of preparation. Samba Parade tickets should be purchased as soon as possible since this is the most popular event. Ticket prices increase as days go by and they vary from $88 to $1,498 depending on seating sectors and date chosen. More information about tickets and prices can be found at: www.rio-carnival.net

You should also get your tickets for the Magic Ball at least two months in advance. Tickets for the Costume Competition in Hotel Gloria and the Gay or Gala Ball in Rio Scala can be purchased a week in advance.

Once in Rio the best way to get to Sambodrome is by cab or subway. Try to avoid busses. Many cab companies offer special transfer services but time management is impossible on Samba Parade days. Your route to the Sambodromo will depend on a seating sector as there is no connection between the two sides of the Sambodromo. Tell the driver in advance your sector. Though the approximate tariff to get there by cab is about $40 each way, the taximeter or an agreement with the driver sets the price of the journey. There is a little extra tariff to leave the Sambodromo so it’s advisable to ask and negotiate before getting in. The doors open at 17:00, but probably the best time to arrive is around 22:00-23:00 when the atmosphere is at its peak.

When it comes to safety the Sambodromo parade days is considered to be the safest place in South America since many celebrities, politicians and royalties come here. You are also allowed to bring your camera or camcorder. Objects made of polystyrene, bottles, glasses, firecrackers and fireworks are forbidden.

Transportation by airplane:
Approximate time:  About 20 hours
Approximate price: 1,128 Euros and above (roundtrip)
Online bookings: http://www.bravofly.co.uk

Accommodation
Accommodation prices are usually higher during Carnival. The average price for a room in three stars accommodation for all four days is $629 (per person in double occupancy).
Cheaper accommodation can be found in youth hostels with prices starting from $25 in a dorm room. More information at www.hostelworld.com